Tips for Safe Seascape Photography

In light of the recent rock fishing-related deaths and my own potentially dangerous encounter with the ocean at Kiama not long ago, I felt the desire to compile and post some tips for safe seascape photography.

Now, admittedly I do not practice all that I am about to preach, but my experience has prompted some thinking, I am much more conscious of the safety issues, and I will be putting some of these measures into practice.  Knowing that I could get injured or killed and never be found again is a frightening thought, and it is not just myself to consider.

So, here is my list of tips, in no particular order.

Tell Someone Where You Are Going

It is a good idea to tell someone where you are going, especially if you are going at dawn, dusk or late at night when such places are more isolated, or if they are isolated locations in general.

Many Sydney seascape locations such as Turimetta Head (Warriewood), “Canyon X” (further north of Turimetta Head), “Devil’s Cauldron” (south of Whale Beach) and Cape Banks are quite remote, can take a while to reach, and can be dangerous to reach (Canyon X in particular).

If you do get into trouble, it could be difficult if not impossible to find you, so tell someone where you will be and when.  Arrange to call someone you know at a pre-determined time to check in and advise that you are safe and well, and make sure you do make the call.

On that note…

Make Sure Your Mobile Phone Has Sufficient Charge

Ensure your phone has sufficient charge so you can make your pre-arranged call, or in case you otherwise need to make a call. Of course, if you are in a location with no mobile coverage (generally not an issue along Sydney’s coastline), that is a risk which requires mitigation.

Never Under-Estimate the Power of the Ocean

The ocean is very powerful, and its appearance can be deceptive.  Do not assume that an area is safe because it looks safe.  Study the ocean for a while; observe its patterns.  It has a rhythm to it, and every so often, larger waves will come in.  I have been told that every 40 minutes or so, a larger-than-usual wave (I am hesitant to call it a rogue wave) comes in.

Look for signs of recent water contact from splashes and waves as opposed to a previously high, outgoing tide.

Be aware of the tide.  Know its direction and when it will be high, as it could leave you stranded. I use the Manly Hydraulics Laboratory to check the tide, and I also have the Pocket Weather AU app on my iPhone, which sources data from the Australian Bureau of Meteorology, and in the paid version, provides tidal information.

Never turn your back on the ocean; a “rogue wave” can come out of nowhere and pound you. It happens very quickly.  Keep an eye on the ocean and be prepared to retreat.

Having experienced the fury of the ocean on more than one occasion, I can relate personally how powerful it is.  The velocity of secondary water contact (ie, splashes after a wave hits a rock) can knock a person off balance.  The volume of water can be huge, and will thoroughly drench a person and everything nearby.

The danger also lies in the fact that the water must recede back into the ocean.  The “rock current” can be quite strong, and its speed, combined with slippery rocks and unstable rock shelves, can sweep a person into the ocean.  There could be jagged rocks on the shoreline, or submerged dangers.  A strong swell can pound a person into those rocks and cause severe injury or death.

Do not put yourself in harm’s way; a fall or a powerful wave can mean the end of you.

Watch Your Step

Seascape photography often involves navigating rocky shorelines, often in darkness or near-darkness if you are a dawn or dusk shooter.  Dangers include uneven terrain, slippery surfaces from moss and moisture (some moss is black and hard to see), crevasses, rock pools and other pot-holes.  It is not difficult to mis-step and scratch a leg, or worse, sprain or break it.

Be Visible, and Be Able to See in the Dark

Wear high-visibility clothing in case you do run into trouble.  Wear a battery-powered headlamp for navigation in the dark.  This is far superior to a hand-held torch, as it keeps your hands free (which you need for balancing or carrying other gear) and also points where your eyes point.  These are essential for navigation in the dark, and can also assist with autofocus.

Protect Your Gear

As I have experienced, electronic equipment tends not to like being wet.  Invest in a weather-resistant camera bag, and also carry plastic bags which can cover your camera in case it rains or in case a splash makes contact.  Use zip-lock bags for smaller items you wish to protect from water (eg, mobile phones, GPS units, wallets, keys, remote shutter releases, memory cards, etc.).  Bring towels, a chamois and other drying equipment in case it is necessary to dry yourself or your equipment.  If you are not using some item in your gear, keep it in your bag; this will prevent it from being lost or damaged if water comes into contact with it.

Insure your gear, and make sure your insurance policy covers accidental damage, and also covers your equipment while it is out of your home.  Having it insured only while it is in the home is useless for a device that was intended to be portable.

Go with Someone

Seascape photography can often be a solitary hobby, but being alone in remote, dangerous locations in the dark can add to the general danger level.  It is better to go with at least one other person.  If either of you runs into trouble, the other can lend assistance.

Having a mate with you can also be handy if you encounter other dangers, such as aggressive, drunken fools out in the streets (or partying in an isolated location) after a Saturday night on the turps.  You are less of a target to would-be attackers if you are not alone.

Dress for the Occasion

It is essential to wear shoes which both provide grip, and can get wet.  Hard-core rock fisherman have metal cleats on their shoes which provide good grip.  I personally have a black pair of Dunlop Volleys which have good rubber grip, are inexpensive, light and can get wet.  I throw them into the washer and dryer with no problems.

Now, I have slid on rock shelves whilst wearing these; they are possibly not the most effective shoes for rock-hopping, but they do a fairly decent job.

Wear shorts, not jeans or other heavy long pants. I wear shorts even in the winter.  There are two benefits.  Firstly, you can be knee-deep in water without having drenched clothing.  Secondly, if you do get swept into the sea, it is less weight to restrict your mobility or weigh you down.  The down-side is that your legs are exposed to the cold, and to sharp rock edges which could scratch or gouge you.  A light weather-proof jacket is a good idea, too.

Seascape photography can be dangerous business.  Hopefully the above advice will prevent you being injured or killed.

You may like to view Brent Pearson’s video on extreme seascape photography at Devil’s Cauldron to see how dangerous the ocean can be, and how suddenly it can lash out.